There was a time in my life that I absolutely lived for the noble sport of snowmobiling.
I completely adored everything about snowmobiles! Here is this crazy looking vehicle lounging on the ground on it's stomach like a lazy house cat. Yet that house cat could somehow carry a person quickly and effectively uphill through deep snow into territory wholly untouched by human influence! It was just about the coolest thing that my 16 year old head could conceive!
The first snowmobile that I ever took apart was a 1970s Chaparral Thunderbird 440.

It belonged to my friend George. I'm pretty sure he picked it up for free. ...Since it was about 20 years old and didn't run at all, free was just about the right price. I had just started my second year of a small engine's class in high school and I was looking for a new project. My first year of small engines involved tearing down an old lawn edger that George gave me to work on. The edger ran when I was finished, though I couldn't tell you why. All I did was take it apart and reassemble it. Ether way, my dubious success with the edger served the purpose of impressing George enough to convince him to turn over his shiny new snowmobile for my year 2 project. (liberal quantities of sarcasm may be applied to both of the words "shiny" and "new" in the preceding sentence for reasons that will become apparent momentarily.) My small engine teacher Mr Cutrer nearly wet himself he was so pleased when I rolled in with a snowmobile. He was always harping on us to ask anyone and everyone for engine projects to work on in class. I clearly didn't need to go further than George.To this day George still has an endless supply of things to tinker with in his cavernous garage :) Needless to say, I was Mr Cutrer's poster boy for the ideal small engines student after that.
I remember it took me several days in class before I managed to access the engine compartment. Chaparral in their infinite wisdom had screwed a shroud over all of the important bits under the hood. The engine, carburetor, clutch, ignition, starter, and other vital items were effectively trapped beneath the shroud. Thus, the items that you may need to access for a field repair were severely restricted with a ton of hidden ,rusted out, and severely seized dome headed screws. (did I mention infinite wisdom?) Chaparral had tried covering the screws with caps, presumably to keep them dry, but all that accomplished was to trap water that seeped in under the caps to keep the screw heads nice and moist. The result was a rusty mess. I stripped the first 3 screws out completely trying to pry them loose. We had to drill them out in the end. It was a misery.
I can only assume that Chaparral's motivation for the stupid shroud was to strand people at the top of mountains unable to perform simple repair work in order to keep them from returning to tell everyone what a lemon the machine was.
The actual "hood" was a wonky u shaped rig that only allowed you to access a portion of the engine bay containing such useful items as the exhaust pipe, and the steering column. How in Sam Hill was one even supposed to replace the belt for crying out loud? We used to buy belts by the gross because those old clutches would gleefully consume them every time we ventured out for longer than a half hour.
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Not the exact model, but similarly shrouded. So very annoying. |
I remember spending ages with an impact screwdriver trying to work those gnarly screws out. Come to find out, I hadn't really needed to access the engine at all. The main problem with the sled turned out to be about 2 gallons of water and dirt that had been swilling around in the gas tank. (Those old machines always had leaky gas caps). Since water and dirt are not terribly effective boosts for combustion, we removed them and replaced them with actual gasoline. Shockingly the old girl started right up! I wish I could take credit for the fix, but someone else had the brilliant idea to test the gas before I dove too far into disassembly.
I have to admit, as soon as I heard that engine fire with that distinctive sort of whistly yet throaty rumble I was legitimately hooked. Nothing sounds like a snowmobile.. It's possible that they just randomly start snowmobiles in heaven just to give the angels a little thrill now and again.
George invited me to take a ride up to his cabin with a couple of friends after we got it running. It was my first and arguably most exciting trip up to the top of Lambs canyon near Park City. We rode up there in the crappiest poo-brown van in America. It ran on 7 out of 8 cylinders and overheated at the drop of a hat. In order to manage the overheating issue we had to keep the heat on full blast the whole way. It was about 800 degrees in that van by the time we arrived at the mouth of the canyon and I thought I was going to dry out and become a tumble weed. Interestingly enough, we had loaded the 2 sleds that we brought with us shoebox style inside the van (something that could never be done with the wider sleds now.) and they were both leaking gas in the van as well. Between the heat and the fumes it was a very exciting ride!
We had brought with us a smooth purple and black 1974 Arctic Cat Panther 440cc (the muscle)
...and the Pièce De Résistance - A vintage 1969 Wankel Rotary 300cc Arctic Cat Panther with leopard print seat accents and an abundance of late 60's attitude.

I love the rotary engine in the '69. Wankel rotary engines have a very distinct throaty sound to them. I can still hear it in my mind. "Whhaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa" The three of us mounted up and set off in the darkness to find George's Cabin. The 440 had to blaze a trail for the '69 panther because it was so anemic and the track was so ineffective that it could not venture off on it's own in any depth of powder with any prayer of maintaining forward motion. Jared and Brian were on the 440 and I followed up on the 300. It was glorious! I had never done anything like it before! Being in the snow blazing a trail through terrain that was untouched by other people felt otherworldly to me. The snow-covered trees and heavy powder creates a feeling of being completely alone in the world. When the snowmobiles were not running there was this palpable quiet that combined with the blueish light of the moon reflecting off the snow that was unlike anything I had ever experienced.
The sleds were clearly old and not exactly capable without hard packed snow to give their tracks some grip. A recent snow had blanketed the area that evening, so powder reigned. Riding a late model snowmobile through deep powder is akin to mowing a swimming pool with a lawn mower. Sure it throws a lot of material around at first, but in the end you know you're just going to sink. The steeper the trail became, the less progress we made in those sad old machines. Ultimately we started parking the snowmobiles and walking out in front of them to pack the snow down a little bit for extra traction. It would get us a little head start and we could go for a little while until the powder stole our momentum again and we were forced to repeat the process. After a short while the whole walking ahead bit became really tedious. It was then that we decided if we were going to be walking most of the time anyway, why drag the sleds along with us? We agreed unanimously to abandon them and we ventured off on foot. We walked about a mile in powder varying from knee deep to waist deep. It was slow and grueling. As I recall. I chose to wear a vintage pair of moon boots (I know right? I literally ooze style! I always have!) with grocery bags filling in for the original waterproofing liners that had disintegrated years earlier. Unsurprisingly they were a miserable failure at keeping me warm, comfortable, or dry. After what seemed like an eternity, we finally crested the top of the climb and started going downhill toward the cabin. My relief was palpable.
The cabin consisted of the remaining 2 walls of a collapsed former cabin that had succumbed to heavy snow years earlier. George had gathered up the usable wood from the collapsed walls and and built onto the remaining walls and formed a tiny single room
cabin shack about the size of a modern bathroom. We trudged up to the door exhausted, cold and hungry and entered what I came to think of in the following years as one of my favorite places on earth . It was a wee space with enough room for a small work bench style table with a Coleman stove on it, a couple of re purposed chairs a small couch and and a big brown wood burning stove. On the floor was a glorious remnant of green shag carpet that was inexplicably full of pins and needles. I think it must have come from someone's sewing room or someone spilled a bag of tetanus on it at some point in it's former location. Either way it was a hazard. I somehow managed to avoid getting stuck up the moon boot with any pins though. Probably because those boots were designed to navigate the friggin' moon! We started a fire in the stove and waited for the cabin to warm up. I confess, it was the first time I had actually heard of "white gas" (which for the layman is the gas used in Coleman lanterns and the like) and also the first time I had seen it used to start a fire. It was impressively effective. WHOOSH! We have fire!
..And warm up the cabin did! The stove was an old cast iron rig that just quietly soaked up the heat from the fire and spat it out into the room room with dogged and surprising efficiency. Soon the cabin had surpassed the temperature of the crappy brown van and we began to shed coats and sweatshirts. Not long after we there was an impromptu striptease as one of us decided that underwear was the most comfortable clothing in a ludicrously hot cabin. Yes I realize that 3 dudes in a small room in the woods with widely varying degrees of clothing on sounds pretty sketchy, but I assure you. It was pure survival. that little room was sweltering! George had an old thermometer on the wall and it was reading about 135 degrees. We were essentially slow roasting ourselves and may have ended up as Jerky if we hadn't been pro-active about staying cool. The extreme heat was a stark contrast from the frigid walk from the snowmobiles to the cabin so at least it was a welcome change.
I should mention at this point that there was a family of mice hiding in the walls that were also enjoying the warmth. They would peek out at us when they thought we weren't looking. We would pound on the walls and send them scurrying away from us whenever we spotted them. For me it was high adventure! Snow, shacks in the woods, beady-eyed vermin, I loved it!
I remember Brian laying his socks on the stove to dry them at one point. It was so hot that in no time at all they had become toasted a lovely golden brown. They looked good enough to eat and I told him so. He immediately took a bite of one and assured me that they were delicious. It was so unexpected that it struck me funny! I laughed so hard I thought I was going to pass out. It's possible that it was late and I was giddy from being frozen, then overheated multiple times and exhausted but I swear it was the funniest damn thing I had seen in my entire life.
Outside the cabin and up a wooden ladder through a trap door was a shallow loft with room for a couple of mattresses laying on the floor side by side. The roof of the loft was about 4 feet high at it's tallest point tapered down to the floor like a lean-to. Shingle nails were poking down through the roof making me worried about sitting up fast in the night and impaling my head on one of them. What's a little more tetanus among friends right?
Sometime around midnight we heard the tell-tale sound of a snowmobile engine coming down the road towards the cabin. George, driving the newly repaired Chaparral had finally come with the food! I had become a little concerned that we were not going to have anything to eat and then we would have to trudge back to the abandoned snowmobiles in the morning with no food. Food aside though, the Chaparral had made it all the way to the cabin! I was extremely proud. My pride was to be short lived though, because on the last stretch, just as George was gunning it to reach the door of the cabin the engine threw a rod and died right there on the spot, never to run again! Such a bummer! Rest in peace you poorly engineered lemon!
Prior to leaving, we had taken a trip to the "little store", which was a damaged food outlet that sold dented canned food. We all picked out some cans to bring with us. My mother was highly concerned about the damaged food store, but it was all part of the adventure to me. You could get a mangled can of ravioli for like 15 cents! It was awesome! I remember that Brian selected generic canned spaghetti which George immediately re-named "worms in cheese sauce" I am pleased to say that despite my mother's concerns, we all dodged the botulism bullet that night, but I'm still not sure how Brian ate those cheesy worms. Nasty crap!
We spent the night in the 1000 degree loft. Brian decided to roll over George on his way in yelling "STEAMROLLER!" George was trapped in his sleeping bag and couldn't defend himself. Any day George can be steamrolled is a good day in my book. Soon we were all rolling around in our sleeping bags yelling "steamroller" trying to crush each other risking life while limb with pointy shingle-nail stalactites above our heads waiting to claw at our eyes. not sure what time we finally got to sleep, but I just remember laughing until my sides hurt.
When morning came, we got up and ate a hearty breakfast of oatmeal made with melted snow and topped with dented canned peaches. George had gotten up early and made the trek back to the snowmobiles and managed to get the old 69 panther to run. The Chaparral had blazed enough of a trail that the Panther made it up to the cabin and we were sort of back in business...ish! The 74 panther was not interested in playing anymore and stubbornly would not start. Nobody had thought to bring any starting fluid, so we just tugged on its pull rope impotently until we were all exhausted. At this point we had 4 guys and a single working, very old and gutless snowmobile. Strangely enough, I don't think I was even worried about it . I was far too busy enjoying myself.
After spending half the day messing with snowmobiles and playing with fire barrels - George threw a cup of white gas into the rusty fire barrel on the deck outside the cabin and blew the bottom right out of the thing when he threw a match in it. It made him yelp and jump back. Also one of the funnier things I had experienced in my young life. At this point George began to complain that Brian and I did nothing but stand around laughing. This sentiment did nothing to deter us. I believe we responded by laughing at him.
Eventually the fuel line for the '69 panther froze or got pinched or clogged or something. I can't remember what happened exactly, but we weren't getting fuel into the carburetor at all. We were back to 0 out of 3 running sleds and a 8 mile trek to the cars. Luckily George is a mad genius. His solution to getting us down the mountain was to have two of us sitting on the seat, one standing on the back holding the shoulders of the second guy on the seat and one guy leaning off the side of the snowmobile, holing on to a handle bar with one hand and squirting gas from a squirt bottle into the carburator every few seconds with the other hand. Zoom! We were off! We did this little clown car act for 8 miles all the way down to the trucks and made it home safely.
It was beautiful from start to finish and I easily one of the best weekends of my life. I couldn't wait to go snowmobiling again!